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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.